On our second trip to Japan in 2025 we discovered the “onsen”, the baths. It quickly became an addiction and we frequented the baths at least five times in our second visit. Nelson even toured us to the base of Mt Fuji and a resort where we could bathe hot and cold in natural spring water and look at snow covered Fuji. Coming home we thought we could maybe find a comparable spot in Japan Town in San Francisco. Kabuki Spa is a fine venue on Geary in the heart of J Town, but the cost is prohibitive at $50 a visit vs. the 1200 Yen price tag in Tokyo. ($7.50)

This visit we started to get a little more sophisticated about the bathing culture. First of all “Onsen” are technically mineral spring fed natural waters . “Sento” are public baths in urban areas with heated and cooled tap water. Nelson introduced us to a wonderful Sento in Hachioji that has a shuttle bus that leaves from the Southside of JR Hachioji Station a 15-minute walk from our house in the neighborhood. We easily doubled our Onsen visits  during our stay this March. 

This time I was not surprised and “shocked” by “Denki Buro”, the electric baths. On our previous visit I had wandered into a denki buro pool and received a jolt that I feared might kick off my A Fib heart condition. This time I avoided these baths and learned the Kanji symbol that labels them. The baths run a current from 3 to 10 Volts and have been around since the 1920’s. Many Japanese folks consider them very therapeutic to treat muscle pain and improve circulation. See “Shocking baths of Japan” by Alice Gordenker  The Japan Times  May 19, 2014

I will limit myself to the challenge of the cold baths. The super cold bath is set at 8.5 Centigrade about 47 degrees Fahrenheit. That is my tolerance when I do my cold plunge at Ocean Beach here in San Francisco. Then from the cold there are many warm options some of them sitting outside and soaking on chaise lounges bathed in hot water, or dunking in large pools while gazing at the open sky which is especially beautiful with a full moon, starry constellations, and in winter falling snow. 

The Kabuki Spa in SF chastised me for conversing with my wife. The Japanese Sento/Onsen is very social and crowds of young people whoop it up. Several men were in the baths carrying their newborn babies. My wife Christina reports that small groups of women and girls speak freely in the women’s section.

The locker room culture is somewhat of a throwback to (Peter’s) college athletic days, a very comfortable place. I (Peter) have to suppress the urge to snap a towel at someone!

In the women’s Onsen mothers and daughters, and little girls finish off their Onsen with 10-20 minutes of facial mask, plus full body massages. Then it’s back to the main lobby for additional R&R on giant tatami mats where friends and family are sprawled out reading, resting, and spending additional time together.

Year around the whole experience is pure comfort for the whole family.

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